You don't see a ford explorer prerunner tearing through the dunes every single day, but that's exactly what makes them such a cool alternative to the standard Raptor or built-out Ranger. Most people look at an old 90s or early 2000s Explorer and see a retired family hauler or a cheap first car for a teenager. But if you know anything about the Ford chassis from that era, you know there's a lot of hidden potential under that boxy body.
Building a prerunner out of an Explorer is a bit of a "best-kept secret" in the off-road community. It's got the wheelbase of a short-bed truck, the boxed frame of a rugged SUV, and most importantly, it shares a ton of DNA with the Ford Ranger. If you're looking to go fast over bumps without spending sixty grand on a new rig, the Explorer platform is a fantastic place to start.
Why Choose the Explorer Platform?
Let's be honest, the main reason people start with a Ford Explorer is the price. You can pick up a mid-90s second-generation Explorer for a couple of thousand dollars, and sometimes even less if you don't mind a messy interior. Since you're probably going to gut half of it anyway, that's not a huge deal.
But it's not just about the money. The Explorer (specifically the 1991–2001 models) shares a lot of front suspension components with the Ford Ranger. This is huge because the aftermarket support for the Ranger is massive. Whether you want a simple mid-travel setup or a full-blown long-travel kit with bypass shocks, the parts are out there and they're relatively easy to find.
Another big plus is the rear suspension. Most of these older Explorers came with the Ford 8.8-inch rear axle. In the world of off-roading, that's a legendary piece of hardware. It's strong, it has a huge variety of gear ratios available, and it can handle a fair amount of abuse before you need to worry about snapping an axle shaft.
Getting the Right Suspension Setup
The soul of a ford explorer prerunner is the suspension. If you don't get this part right, you're just driving a top-heavy SUV that's going to rattle your teeth out the moment you hit the dirt.
The Front End: TTB vs. A-Arms
Depending on what year your Explorer is, you're looking at two different front-end setups. The 1991–1994 models use the Twin Traction Beam (TTB) setup. Off-road purists love the TTB because it can offer incredible amounts of wheel travel for a relatively low price. You can "cut and turn" the beams to get more height and better alignment, allowing the front end to soak up huge hits.
The 1995–2001 models moved to an Independent Front Suspension (IFS) with upper and lower A-arms. While some people think these are less "hardcore" than the old beams, a well-built A-arm setup can be incredibly smooth and handles much better on the street. If you're going this route, you'll definitely want to look into long-travel kits that widen the track and use high-quality coilovers.
Rear Suspension and Weight Balance
One of the challenges with an Explorer is the weight in the back. Unlike a truck with an empty bed, the Explorer has all that glass, the roof, and the rear hatch. This actually helps with traction, but it means you need a serious leaf spring pack or a link setup to keep the rear from bottoming out. A lot of guys will swap in Deaver leaf springs and a pair of high-quality remote reservoir shocks to help the back end keep up with the front.
Fitting the Big Tires
You can't have a prerunner without big tires and a wide stance. Most guys aim for 33-inch or 35-inch tires. To get those to fit on a ford explorer prerunner, you're going to need to do some surgery.
Standard steel fenders don't have enough clearance for long-travel suspension. When that wheel tucks up into the wheel well, it'll crunch the factory sheet metal in a heartbeat. That's where fiberglass comes in. Companies like Fiberwerx and McNeil Racing make "bulge" fenders specifically for the Explorer. These give you the room you need and also give the truck that aggressive, wide-shouldered look that defines the prerunner style.
Just a heads-up: installing fiberglass fenders usually requires some trimming and drilling. It's not a "bolt-on and go" afternoon project if you want it to look clean. But once they're on and painted (or wrapped), the transformation is incredible.
Powering the Beast: V6 or V8?
When you're looking for a donor vehicle, you'll usually find two engine options: the 4.0L V6 or the 5.0L V8.
The 4.0L is a workhorse. It's not going to win you any drag races, but it's reliable and there's plenty of room in the engine bay to work. However, if you can find one with the 5.0L V8, grab it. The Ford 302 (5.0L) is one of the most famous engines ever built. It has more torque, which you'll definitely want when you're trying to push 35-inch tires through deep sand. Plus, the aftermarket for the 5.0L is endless. You can add headers, an intake, or even a cam to get a bit more "oomph" out of it.
Regardless of the engine, you have to keep it cool. Off-roading is hard on cooling systems because you're often at high RPMs but moving at lower speeds, meaning there's less airflow through the radiator. Upgrading to a high-capacity aluminum radiator and adding a transmission cooler is almost mandatory if you don't want to end up stranded with a steaming hood.
The Importance of Safety and Caging
Let's talk about the elephant in the room: safety. Explorers have a bit of a reputation for being "rolly." While most of that was blown out of proportion years ago due to tire issues, the fact remains that any SUV with a high center of gravity can be sketchy if you're pushing it hard off-road.
If you're serious about your ford explorer prerunner and plan on taking it over jumps or through high-speed whoop sections, you really need a roll cage. A basic six-point cage tied into the frame will not only save your life if things go sideways but also stiffen the entire chassis. SUVs tend to flex a lot, and a cage helps keep everything solid, which actually makes your suspension perform better.
Inside the cabin, you'll also want to swap those mushy factory seats for some decent off-road buckets and five-point harnesses. Trust me, being strapped in tight makes a world of difference when you're hitting bumps. You don't want to be sliding around and using the steering wheel as a handle to stay in your seat.
The Reality of the Build
Building a prerunner is a journey. It's rarely "finished." You'll start with a leveling kit and some tires, then you'll realize you need better shocks. Then you'll realize you need wider fenders. It's a bit of a rabbit hole, but it's a fun one.
The best part about the Explorer is that it's surprisingly practical. Unlike a truck where all your gear is exposed to the dust and rain in the bed, the Explorer lets you keep your tools, spare parts, and camping gear locked up and dry inside the cabin. You can even fold the back seats down and sleep in it if you're out on a long trail weekend.
In the end, a ford explorer prerunner is about having something unique. It's about taking a vehicle that most people have forgotten and turning it into a desert-shredding machine. It takes some work, a bit of fabrication, and probably more money than you originally planned, but the first time you air it out over a sand crest, you'll know it was worth every penny.